Interview: author Tarquin Hall
ICONS met journalist Tarquin Hall, author of "Salaam Brick Lane: A Year in the New East End", to ask about his experiences of living on Brick Lane and what Banglatown had taught him about “Englishness”.
Click on a question to hear Tarquin's answer:
What makes Brick lane unique in multi-cultural Britain?
What's
extraordinary about Brick Lane is that it's seen these waves and waves
of immigrants who have come and settled ever since it was founded
really and that goes for the East End in general.
I don't think
you've really got a street in London that has had quite so many
different kinds of people from so many different cultures and countries
coming. You've had French Huguenots, Irish escaping from the potato
famine who built the docks, tens and tens of thousands of Jews fleeing
the pogroms and, most recently of course, you've had 60,000
Bangladeshis settling on and around brick lane and now you've got new
waves of Afghans, Iraqis, Kurds…
The whole world, you know, has
always come to Brick Lane, as well as dissidents, writers like William
Shakespeare, anarchists and misfits like me.
How would you describe Brick lane to someone who had never been there ?
Brick
Lane's a very narrow one-way street lined with lots of Victorian houses
and, of course, the Truman Brewery which stands in the middle. What's
amazing about Brick Lane is you've got these different parts to the
main street, and you sort of have a cultural tour of the whole of
London as you go down it.
In one part it's all indian restaurants
run by Bangladeshis, you've got big neon signs advertising curry and
balti and touts outside trying to lure you into the Indian restaurants
and the smell of spices and Bangladeshi shops selling frozen fish from
the Brahmaputra river and the Brahmaputra.
And then you go a
little bit further and you pass the old Truman brewery, which is one of
the oldest breweries in London - no longer a brewery it's been
completely taken over by very trendy young Londoners and Europeans who
congregate there in trendy cafés and, you know, play their MP3 players
and talk about dot.com start-ups and go to shops with names like Eat My
Handbag Bitch.
And then you go further north and you are into the
old rag trade part of Brick Lane, where the Bangladeshi leather jacket
shops can all still be found. That goes back to the old Jewish rag
trade which was very prevalent in that part of the East End and then of
course you've got the old bagel shops and people just sort of hanging
out on street corners and it gets progressively rougher as you go along.
What was your quitessential Brick Lane moment?
The
first night I can never forget - I was terrified and amazed being there
on the street looking out the window and seeing all this activity in
the middle of the night, with drunks and prostitutes and drug peddlers
and people coming from nightclubs, and all of them coming to eat bagels
and drink coffee and tea and go back to the nightclubs or some of them
were going off to start their nightshifts cleaning offices in the City
of London.
There were punch-ups, there were bikes stolen… this obviously wasn't
all going on on the first night but I guess I sort of put it all
together in my mind.
I think my quintessential Brick Lane moment was standing in the window
of the kitchen that I had just watching in the light cast by the street
lights and the traffic lights blinking watching the tramps and the
prostitutes and all the people from the nightclubs and taxi drivers
kind off milling around the Beigel Bake and just all the faces and
feeling quite scared and alone and I think I had an idea of what it
must be like to be an immigrant to London and to have just arrived and
be on your own in this strange, sometimes dangerous, hostile and
extraordinarily busy place.
Has Brick Lane changed your idea of "Englishness"?
Brick
Lane changed for me the way I look at Englishness because I suddenly
realised that it's a huge mix of all sorts of things, it's a huge
recipe of all kinds of ingredients that have been boiled together over
centuries and I think we kind of formulate this idea at any particular
time and our English forefathers, whatever, have done this as well - we
sort of decide what Englishness means but it then actually changes and
I think this is happening all the time.
But being English is a state
of mind and that's what I really began to realise in the East End. It's
not a genetic thing, it changes, and this became really really clear
when I was helping this Bangladeshi establish what a Cockney is.
Why has Brick Lane always been a magnet for immigrants?
Mostly
that has to do with the fact that the docks were there so people would
come off ships down on the Thames and the East End was very close by.
I
think there are a couple of things: firstly it was very poor, so you
could find accommodation there, and so it was a cheap place to stay,
but secondly it was such a hodge-podge and it has this history of
tolerance because it was always a place outside the walls of the city
where anybody could really go and make a future for themselves.
It
was very hard to do that say in the West End of London on the other
side of London or in London itself because of the guilds and the
monopolies that existed and the fact it was walled - you could keep
people out.
I think that's why you always have this extraordinary
mix of people all having to live side by side and often with completely
different backgrounds, completely different views on the world, and
that's been the case for a long, long time, and it's certainly the case
today.
Tension between different ethnic groups is very much in the national and international news at the moment, is this reflected on Brick Lane?
I think
people get very fixated on racial tension in Britain and I think if you
look at it in that perspective, yes, of course it's relative, there is
racial tension, there has been racial tension in the past, it exists
today.
Is it a big, big problem? No, I really don't think it is. I
don't know the last time we had anything like the kind of problems
you've had in say the south of the United States where people have been
dragged behind cars or hung from trees by lynch mobs. You may have had
the Blackshirts, you may have the BNP coming in, but, generally
speaking, I think it's an unbelievably tolerant place actually and I
think that's always been the case.
What happens when a new community begins to establish itself on Brick Lane?
Generally
what's happened with groups of people coming in is they stay within
their own community until they've acclimatised. Language is the biggest
barrier often but often religion and just habits and attitutes as well.
I
think that's quite a healthy thing because it means you can get on with
your own thing. Otherwise I think there would be a lot more trouble, if
everyone was expected to immediately adopt all kinds of new attitudes
and fit in exactly as the State wants you to fit in. It doesn't give
you the chance to acclimatise and do it on your own terms.
How long does it take for integration to start happening?
But
it does take time. I think the press, media, these days and politicians
have decided that it's something that should happen very, very, very
quickly, and they cry ,"Oh God, you know they're not British enough!"
Well, I think in the past it's taken time, you know, certainly if you
look at the history of the Jews in the East End, it took a good two or
three generations for that community to find its feet, to sort of learn
to fit in, and it's been a great success story.
But I think it is
important that eventually groups of people coming in and living in a
new culture do learn to fit in and acclimatise. I don't think they
necessarily have to become British, if you want to to term Britishness
as, "Hey you, you should be playing cricket and drinking tea and
supporting Manchester United," or whatever.
As the anthropologist, Aktar asks in your book: "Are the Bangladeshi's becoming English...?"
I
went recently to a reading by a Bangladeshi lady who was reading some
of her poetry at a cultural centre in the East End of London. She was
100 per cent Bangladeshi in dress, in mind, in attitude. She was
wearing a beautiful silk sari, she spoke in the most lovely Bangladeshi
accent in English, she was reading her poetry in English.
And at
this thing there were some Bangladeshi girls in hijabs who were there
who wanted to be writers and they were listening to this lady. And they
got up and read their poetry and it was all, "Yeah, s'right 'innit" and
they had these really serious East End cockney accents, and the
contrast between these ladies was so extreme and I think you were left
in no doubt whatsoever that these East End Bangladeshi girls were 100
per cent British.
If you went up to them and said, "Hey you, what
are you?" They might tell you they're Muslim first or "We're not
British we don't like being called British" or "We're British Muslim".
I don't think that when you ask people necessarily what they are
they necessarily know! It's very difficult to label people and it's
difficult to ask them to label themselves.
So I am very suspicious
of these survey's that say, "Oh dear, a lot of immigrants don't see
themselves as British." Yes, they may not but actually they really are
- if you talk to them, you listen to them, they are as British as
Norman Tebbit.
"...Or are they becoming something else, something new?"
Whether the end result is how we see Englishness today and Britishness today, no, I don't think that's the case.
I
think that this is a highly tribal culture. It's always been filled
with people from all kinds of different tribes - you've had the Scots,
the Welsh, the Cornish, the Angles, the Saxons all living side by side.
I
think what is probably emerging is a new tribe of British, if you like,
and they have different kind of customs, some of them have been brought
from other places, some of them are adapting.
And at the same time
the general fabric of the place, the English process, if you want to
call it that, is slowly absorbing them into the fabric of this place.
What's the future for Brick Lane?
I
think Brick Lane and the East End has always been an incredibly
transient place and if you look at it now as far as things are
concerned people just come and go all the time.
At the moment
you've got this huge new trendy, young British phenomenon, these people
who are quite middle class actually in their habits have suddenly moved
in because it's cheap and it's cool and it's trendy and it's grungey -
they'll all move on, there's just no question about it - they will have
children and move to the suburbs.
I think the Bangladeshis are
already starting to move on. A lot of young Bangladeshis who have
university degrees or who have been really successful in business don't
want to stick around. It's not the prettiest part of London or England,
it's still pretty poor, it's still quite rough: 80% of the population
are in council housing and I think that drives people to move on as
soon as they can.